Metallurgy 101

The weight of gold or gold articles is usually expressed in troy ounces and/or pennyweight (dwt)

1 Troy ounce = 1.097 ordinary ounce
1 Troy ounce = 20 pennyweight (dwt)

The "d" in the traditional symbol for pennyweight (dwt) is from the Latin denarius, the small Roman coin which was the equivalent of a penny.

Yellow Gold is alloyed with silver and copper. It is the most frequently used type of gold there is.

White Gold is alloyed with a large percentage of silver and is therefore more expensive than yellow gold. White gold is highly reflective and not subject to tarnish.

Rose Gold is alloyed with copper and silver.

Examples:

• 14kt yellow gold is 58.3% gold, 30% silver & 11.5% copper
• 14kt rose gold is 58.3% gold, 9% silver & 32.5% copper

Gold jewelry is typically stamped with two important marks: the karat mark and the hallmark. By U.S. law, every gold item must display a karat mark that indicates its purity—such as 10K, 14K, or 18K. This mark tells you how much pure gold is in the piece.

In addition to the karat mark, most gold jewelry will also feature a hallmark, which is usually the manufacturer’s trademark. This stamp identifies who made the piece and serves as a guarantee of authenticity. Together, these markings help verify the gold’s quality and origin, giving buyers confidence in what they’re purchasing.

When selecting custom gold jewelry for a recognition or award program—especially for an international workforce—it’s important to understand how gold standards vary around the world. While all gold jewelry contains some amount of pure gold, the percentage of gold (measured in karats) that’s considered "standard" can differ by region and culture.

• United States: 10K and 14K gold are most common. 10 karat gold (41.6% pure) is legally considered gold in the U.S. and is widely accepted, especially for high-wear items like rings and pins. 14K (58.3% pure) offers a slightly richer color and is popular for recognition and fine jewelry.

• European Union: Preferences trend toward higher purity. 14K and especially 18K (75% pure) gold are commonly expected, particularly for formal or ceremonial pieces.

• Middle East: Gold is deeply tied to cultural and financial value, and 22K gold (91.6% pure) is standard for most jewelry. Anything less may be perceived as lower quality or even unacceptable.

• Far East (including China, India, Southeast Asia): Like the Middle East, 22K gold is preferred for traditional jewelry. However, 18K and 14K are gaining popularity in more contemporary or western-influenced designs.

Why it matters:
If you’re purchasing gold jewelry for a globally diverse workforce—or for recipients in specific markets—aligning the gold karat with local expectations can ensure the piece is received as intended: a meaningful, high-value gesture. A piece that might feel premium in the U.S. may not meet the threshold for “fine jewelry” in Dubai or Delhi.

If you're unsure which karat level is best for your audience, our team is happy to help you make the right choice for your program and budget.

When selecting custom jewelry, especially for recognition and award programs, it’s helpful to understand the difference between gold-plated and gold-filled pieces. Both offer the appearance of gold, but they differ in how they’re made and how much gold they actually contain.

Gold-Plated Jewelry
Gold-plated jewelry is made by applying a thin layer of gold—often just a few microns thick—over a base metal using an electroplating or dipping process. The gold layer is decorative and does not significantly increase the item's weight or intrinsic value. Over time, especially with frequent wear, the plating may begin to wear away, revealing the base metal underneath.

Gold-Filled Jewelry
Gold-filled jewelry is created by mechanically bonding a thicker layer of gold to a core of base metal, typically brass. The gold layer is much more substantial than in gold plating and is measured by weight—typically making up 5%, 10%, 15%, or even 20% of the item. This bonding process results in a more durable surface that retains its gold appearance longer under normal use.

Key Differences to Know

• Gold Content: Gold-filled has a higher percentage of gold by weight than gold-plated.

• Construction: Gold-plated uses electroplating; gold-filled uses mechanical bonding.

• Durability: The thicker gold layer in gold-filled items generally leads to longer-lasting wear.

• Appearance: Both look like gold, but differences may emerge over time depending on use and care.

Understanding these differences can help you match the material choice to the intended use and expected lifespan of your jewelry pieces.

Fine silver in its natural state, 999/1000 pure, is almost as soft as gold, too soft an element for practical jewelry. To make it workable, an alloy such as copper is added. The following are the more common silver alloys:

Sterling Silver - A mixture of 92.5% silver and 7.5% metal alloy  Sometimes jewelry made of this metal mixture is marked .925, to indicate that the metal is at least 92.5% pure silver.

• Mexican Silver - 90% - 99% pure silver
• Coin Silver - 90% pure silver and 10% metal alloy
• German Silver or Nickel Silver - A silver white alloy consisting of copper, zinc, and nickel
• Vermeil - Sterling Silver electroplated with karat gold

One of the unique benefits of working with E.A. Dion is that we can manufacture jewelry in a variety of metals. This makes it easy for you create programs at a variety of price points. 

Avantus – A high-value, non-plated “yellow” jewelry offering with a less demanding price point than Karat Gold.  An optimum mix of the most recognized “noble” metals in the world – Gold, Platinum (Palladium), and Silver.  The gold-led, precious metal alloy delivers a pleasing “Champagne” hue.

Brass – An alloy made up of copper and zinc, with other metals in varying lesser amounts.  By varying the copper content, several colors can be produced, from a gold tone (high brass) to a copper tone (gilding metal). 

Gold – The three karat grades we use are 10K, 14K, and 18K.  10K is approximately 41.6% pure gold; 14K is approximately 58.5% gold; and 18K is approximately 75.2% pure gold.

Gold Filled – Made of a hard base metal (often brass) with a bonded layer of karat gold on top. 

Gold Plated –- Gold plated jewelry is made by using electricity or chemicals to deposit and bond a very thin layer of gold over another metal.

Opulite – A “white” precious metal offering with wear properties exceeding Sterling Silver, priced more agreeably than White Gold and does so while maintaining its luxurious white appearance without the need for rhodium plating.  Opulite delivers a platinum family metal, Palladium, with a permanent, un-enhanced, luxurious white appearance combined with greater wear properties such as, tarnish resistance and durability when compared with Sterling Silver. 

Sterling Silver – A durable jewelry metal consisting of at least 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% alloy.

Vermeil – Sterling silver that has been plated with at least 10K or better gold with an average thickness of 100 mills or 2.5 microns.